Gucci sales to plunge 20% in first quarter on Asia slowdown

Kering SA warned that sales at Gucci have plunged about 20% in the first quarter due to a steeper-than-expected decline in the Asia-Pacific region, widening the gap between the French luxury company and its stronger rivals.

Kering’s American depositary receipts tumbled 9% late Tuesday after the company’s unscheduled update. 

The fashion group has been trying to revitalise Gucci, the Italian label that accounts for about two-thirds of profit, without success.

Controlled by the billionaire Pinault family, Kering has struggled to keep up with rivals like LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE and Hermes International SCA as luxury sales have come off the boil over the past year, especially in China. 

LVMH’s broader brand portfolio and Hermes’s long waiting lists for handbags have made those companies more resilient.

Overall, comparable sales at Kering, which also owns labels like Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga, will be down about 10% for the period, the company said.

Gucci sales fell in the final months of last year as the label struggled to lure more wealthy shoppers to its pricey Double G belts and Princetown slippers. 

Sabato De Sarno was named as the brand’s new designer last year and he unveiled his first collection in September in Milan, which showed a more elegant and minimalistic aesthetic compared to the flamboyant looks of his predecessor Alessandro Michele.

Early ready-to wear products from the latest Ancora collection are meeting with a “highly favorable reception,” according to Kering. 

Their availability will increase in coming months, the company said.

Though Kering has been struggling with issues specific to Gucci, investors in some other fashion companies were spooked by its warning. Shares of Prada SpA tumbled as much as 11% in Hong Kong.

With a recovery in China slow to materialise, luxury companies have grown more dependent on the US. 

That’s bad news for Gucci, which is particularly exposed to the Asian market. The company plans to release quarterly revenue numbers on April 23.